The closest I’ll get to time travel: An interview with my Grandma on her 100th Birthday

9 May

Apparently longevity runs in my family (at least on my Mom’s side).  My Great Grandma lived into her late 90’s, as did her sisters.  My Great Aunt Frieda lived to be 108.  She was a child when railroads were expanding in Iowa.  That is where my Grandma L grew up.  In west central Iowa.  I spent most of my childhood summers there on vacation.  They are the type of leisurely days only a child can appreciate…walking to the library with my sister and returning with stacks of “Nancy Drew” and “Dana Girls Mystery Stories,” catching fireflies on balmy summer nights and playing cards while swiveling back and forth in a linoleum chair.  I can still remember the cool, musty smell of the basement where my sister and I attempted to play nicely together.  And always homemade rhubarb pie, local sweet corn, and other treats.

So what does 100 years old look like?

Grandma L is pretty adorable.  She doesn’t like talking about her age, and she modestly informs us “I have no aches and pains.”  She isn’t in a wheelchair.  She has a walker, but if she has someone who will offer an arm, she can walk just fine.  Her memory is also functioning pretty well.  However, Grandma L doesn’t remember all the details anymore, and her frustration over the years that crept by is tangible.

Me with Grandma L on her 100th Birthday

Me with Grandma L on her 100th Birthday

My family all gathered recently to celebrate Grandma L’s 100 years.  I took the opportunity to talk with her about some of her memories and supplemented that with information my sister gathered several years back.  I hoped, perhaps somewhat ambitiously, to have a few of her memories from each decade of her life, a historical timeline of sorts.  In my own way, I wanted to travel through time with her.

What emerged was perhaps something much more valuable.  Travel most frequently seems to be bound by date and location.  But travel is also seeing something through the perspective of another…

The Top 5 lessons I’ve learned from my Grandma’s 100 Years

Education is important: My Grandma was the only girl with three brothers, growing up in rural Iowa during the Great Depression.  Her parents insisted she finish high school.  For her own children (my Mom and Uncle), it was always an expectation they would go to college.  All of the four grandkids (of which I am one) are well educated.  And so it will continue to be.

Someone has to lead.  It might as well be you: So it turns out my Grandma’s Mom was a bit of a trendstarter.  The 1920’s, that rabel-rousing decade, saw women cutting their long locks as “the bob” came into fashion.  Great Grandma was the first in town to chop her locks and everyone else followed.  She also started wearing shorter skirts and shoes with buttons.  The rest of the local women followed suit.  That makes me proud.  It takes courage to be a leader, and I am inspired to know it is in my DNA.

Music and the Arts are vital to the soul: Grandma L liked to dance.  After all, the barn dances in the hayloft were a big deal when she was growing up.  “Those floors were so slick” she says, remembering.  During our conversation, she mentioned a few verses of a song she liked.  A quick search on a nearby phone located Patsy Cline’s “Walkin’ After Midnight.”  Grandma started bouncing her head as we played it for her.  She would have been 47 when it first hit the airwaves.  Grandma L never claimed to be musical, but listening and dancing were always a part of her life.  I love feeling connected to her through this song and imagining her and my Grandpa dancing to it.

Evolution becomes revolution: Grandma remembers that she was the 3rd in town to have TV.  When I asked her if the transition from black and white to color was significant, she said “Not really.  The colors weren’t nearly as bright as they are now.”  However, in a rare moment of high level reflection on all of the social, political, and technological changes seen in her life, Grandma said “it has really been a revolution.”  At a moment in time, the changes may seem, and actually be, incremental, but in time they become real progress, real revolution.

Even love at first sight takes patience: My Grandma remembers the exact moment she met my Grandfather.  He was working on her Uncle’s farm.  She stepped out of the car one day, and he came around the side of the house.  “Our eyes met, and I knew he was the one I would marry.”  Still, it would be 5 years before they married with sometimes weeks passing in between their dates.  My Grandfather died over 20 years ago, but my Grandma still speaks of him with love.  “I miss the old guy,” she says with flirtatious tone to her voice.  “He was a good man, a really good man.”

One bonus lesson: Be in the present

I couldn’t help but be reflective during the 100th birthday celebration weekend.  I treasured each second I got to spend with Grandma L.  I even got to paint her nails for her (a lovely pink shade).  She enjoyed it because she had painted nails throughout most of her life.  What color?  “Well, there really only was one shade.  It was a Revlon brand red color.”

Birthday Girl!

It also occurred to me that she doesn’t get to choose what she can remember and what details are inaccessible.  The present matters.  At the end of your days, will you be able to remember today?  And if you can’t pick and choose, the better you make each day, perhaps the higher the probability those days will be the ones you remember.  I don’t claim to have any of these lessons, let alone this one, mastered.  But I’m trying.

A closing thought…

As I traveled the world, I always sent Grandma L postcards.  I ended each of them the same way.  I’ll end this post similarly.

“Remember that no matter how far I travel and wherever I go, I will always be thinking of you.”


Cabo San Lucas: A few of my best tips for a great holiday

1 May

Cabo San Lucas has been on my radar for a long time.  Growing up in California, it is a pretty easy trip.  In my opinion, it is the west coast version of the Caribbean for east coasters.  I’ve been three times-once as a teenager, another time during business school over New Year’s, and my most recent trip in late December 2011.  Each trip was different and enjoyable in its own way.

Why I was headed to Cabo for vacation

I’m only going to write about my most recent trip.  There won’t be spring break tips or a safety primer.  I was headed down for R&R to belatedly celebrate a close female friend’s birthday and successful recovery from breast cancer.  It also turned out that another male friend of ours was heading down at the same time.  I owe the restaurant recommendations to him.  My friend and I were staying at a timeshare in between San Jose del Cabo (SJ) and Cabo San Lucas (CSL).  I won’t be providing a review of the Club Regina Los Cabos (attached to, but independent from, the Westin Los Cabos), but I did enjoy the location.

A quick note on cars

The main road between SJ and CSL appeared to be quite new.  It even had little lights on the road that are motion sensitive at night and light up.  Parking in either of the towns could be a bit of handful, though not insane.  That said, I wasn’t the one doing the driving.  Honestly, it gave us a ton of flexibility.  If you have someone in your party willing to drive/park, I would recommend it.

A beautiful house during a walk along the beach in Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

My “typical day”

8am: Awaken to the sounds of the ocean

10am: Brunch, frequently out

Afternoon: Activity (walk on beach, ziplining, horseback riding)

Late afternoon: Soak up the sun by the pool (covered in SPF 50 and a wide brimmed hat)

Evening: Nice dinner

Late Evening: Fall asleep to the sounds of the ocean

A few of my recommended activities

Ziplining: I had been ziplining previously in Costa Rica, and I find it fun.  We selected Wild Canyon Adventures.  It was a nice course that took several hours.  There was definitely a bit of hiking in between stations so be forewarned.  Also, if you have a lighter person or a child, I highly recommend they pair up with a heavier person when possible on the tandem ziplines.  I fall on the petite side, and I had a few times I didn’t make it all the way.  I just had to pull myself the last few yards, but it does get tiring.  Great tricep workout though.

Todos Santos and nearby beaches: I wrote about the stunning nearby beaches in a previous post, and I do also recommend the town of Todos Santos.  It is colorful, cute, and makes a great day trip.  One big caveat: the road to Todos Santos is currently under major construction.  It was slow, rough, and we spent the majority of the time behind major construction vehicles.  If you are short of patience or have young children, proceed with caution.  That said, the drive is beautiful, and I’m sure it will be even better with the new road.

Sunrise from in front of our hotel room, Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

Sunrise & Sunset: I was on a quest to find great spots to watch both, and I feel successful in those endeavors.  Chosen locations were confirmed by a local photographer.  For sunset, head to the Sunset Da Mona Lisa Restaurant.  You don’t need to eat there.  Grab a drink at the upstairs bar and then walk around the stunning vista as the sun sets behind the famous El Arco.  For sunrise, we climbed down on the rocks in front of our hotel room.  If you are staying elsewhere, I’m sure you can grab breakfast at the adjacent Westin for a similar view.

Be sure to look up: The stars are just spectacular (this coming from a girl who resides in CO, not too far from the mountains).  My friend and I curled up under a blanket on our patio late one night and just spent some time being peaceful and looking up.

Where to eat in Cabo San Lucas and San Jose

I ate well in Cabo.  Coming from a landlocked state, we all wanted to eat as much seafood as possible.  You’ll notice that in my comments.  Yum, I’m getting hungry just writing this.  In no particular order.

Nick-San (CSL and also across the street from La Palmilla): Good Japanese food.  Not inexpensive.  Very nice ambience and good cocktails.  Not sure how it truly compares to great east and west coast Japanese restaurants.

La Dolce (CSL & SJC): Good Italian food.  The tiramisu was only ok, but they have a chocolate peanut butter dessert (we ate it late night at a different location).  They said it is always on the menu.  We completely devoured it.

Mama’s royal cafe/Felix (CSL).  Omelet and stuffed french toast were both great.  Brunch.  Very chill

Misiones de Kino (CSL): REALLY good.  Brie appetizer, fish with garlic, shrimp with pineapple and coconut shrimp were all amazing.  This might have been my favorite meal.

French Riviera Bakery

Baan Thai (SJC): This is totally legit Thai food, and I have very high standards.  Tuna main, tuna carpaccio, and green papaya salad were some of our faves.

Solomon’s Landing (CSL): At the marina by the Wyndam Hotel.  Looks very cheesy, but the food was delicious and our waiter was super helpful.  Everything we had was great, but I particularly remember their homemade corn tortillas.  Also, it would be an easy place to take kids, in my opinion.

French Riveria Bakery (SJC): We had breakfast here several times, and the pastries are great.  I particularly liked the chocolate croissant aux amandes.  Beautiful little building as well.

So what are your favorite spots and activities in Cabo?

Header Photo: Sunset in Cabo San Lucas.  All photos © W2S Hilary

Reflections on Bosnia after the war

10 Apr

It was 2006, 11 years after the end of the Bosnian War.  We had to step over the corpse of a dog which had likely been killed by a landmine.  Even years later, you still had to be careful about landmines.  As we stood in the same position as snipers in the hills above Sarajevo, our tour guide told us a personal story.  Our guide, “Y”, said that after the war he ran into a man who was a Serbian sniper during the conflict.  During their conversation, the former sniper said he used to blow up cars.  Why?  He had to use up a certain amount of ammunition every day.  I can’t verify the accuracy of the exchange, though I have every reason to believe it is true.  I want to believe it is true.  I want to believe that in the midst of such a cruel conflict, the choice for life could be made by anyone.

View of Sarajevo from the mountains surrounding the city

Writing about Bosnia makes me nervous…but I’m doing it anyway

This is a blog post I’ve wanted to write since I started my blog.  I pretty much destroyed my apartment looking for the two pieces of binder paper that were my journal while I was there for a few days in the spring of 2006.  But who am I to be writing about an extremely complex war when I only visited the country for a few days more than a decade after it happened?  I know I cannot claim any kind of expertise or significant knowledge.  My heart still breaks for those who did live through it.

I’m sharing my very limited experience with all of you because being in Sarajevo affected me deeply.  So I’ve kept these sheets of binder paper on my desk in front of me for weeks as if the pages were asking me when I was going to share them.  Like the conflict itself, the pages had gotten buried for years as my own life moved on and other stories made the headlines.  They are now at the top of my stack.  The words in this post are worth writing, snippets of my journal entry are worth sharing, even if only a few of you read this.  I hope by the end you will understand why.

Why I was in Sarajevo

I wasn’t in Sarajevo on vacation.  I was there as part of an MBA project for Women for Women International (WFWI).  Women for Women’s mission is to “provide women survivors of war, civil strife and other conflicts with the tools and resources to move from crisis and poverty to stability and self-sufficiency, thereby promoting viable civil societies.”  In fact, WFWI founder Zainab Salbi’s experience in Bosnia was part of her inspiration.  Our MBA team was doing a strategy project for WFWI.  That meant we needed to see for ourselves and experience for ourselves the pain, the obstacles, and the hope…and to approach it with fresh eyes.

Snapshot in time…Sarajevo circa 2006

Sarajevo, Bosnia

Sarajevo, Bosnia

After arriving in Sarajevo, we took a tour of the city to better understand the history and the war.  Our guide Y claimed to be the only official tour guide in the country. The city did not seem particularly distinctive, except that there was lots of construction.  You had to mentally remind yourself that this was not construction, but reconstruction.  The plaster falling off buildings happened to be in perfect circles, the shape of machine gun fire.  Every building seemed to have these distinctive freckles, surface wounds no one bothered to repair or hide.

Over the next few days, we met with people from the World Bank and the U.S. embassy, and some participants in WFWI’s programs.  With the participants themselves, we didn’t talk much about the war.  Yet the price of peace was all around us.  We heard about how difficult it was to get things done or start a business, and the data proves the point.  Bosnia ranked 95 out of 175 according to a World Bank “Ease of doing business survey” from that year.  Unfortunately, the situation only appears to be getting worse with the same ranking now at 125 out of 183.  A recent Reuters article discusses the current situation well.  Yet in spite of all that, I sensed hope mixed with weariness and weariness tinged with apathy.

The pain of perspective

The former retirement home. Sarajevo, Bosnia

The name Sarajevo means “fields in front of the castle,” and the scenery was breathtaking.  For lunch on the day of our tour, we ate at a lovely spot along one of the rivers outside the city.  Blue skies on an early spring day lent a sense of peace.  And yet, just a five minute drive away was the machine-gunned skeleton of a bombed out building.  When we asked what it had been, our guide Y told us it had been a retirement home.  We all gasped.  Although I had read about the horrors of the war, seeing the shell of that building brought the brutality home.  No one had been spared.

But the most haunting 360 panorama was still to come.

Y took us to a hilltop.  One wedge of skyline contained a new maternity hospital.  Another wedge contained the Olympic stadium.  The last wedge was lush green rolling hills, covered in white tombstones.  I distinctly remember getting queasy as my body felt faster than my mind could comprehend.  The proverbial circle of life was all there.

My closing thoughts…

2012 marks the 20th Anniversary of the Bosnian War.  There is additional press coverage, and I would encourage you to read it.  For travelers considering a visit, I would encourage you to go.  Not just because there are sights to see in Bosnia and Sarajevo or because a trip to Mostar is well worth it.  Not just because it is an easy add-on to Vienna (only a 1.5hr flight).  I would encourage you to go because we can.  By visiting, I believe we provide forward motion; we acknowledge that the past is indeed in the past.
                                                                                                                                                                     Sarajevo, Bosnia-Herzegovina

“This place reminds you that life and love are fragile and temporal, courage is rare but real, and sometimes only out of necessity, and doing even a little bit is doing something.  Each person has a role to play.  These are all truisms I’ve known, but I didn’t really get it.  These are issues with which the mind would rather not grapple.  It is certainly easier not to.  But one glance at hillsides covered in graves reminds you that this just isn’t about easy-easy doesn’t honor a memory, easy doesn’t respect millions of broken hearts…”                                  

Personal Journal, March 28, 2006

So to honor the memory of those lost, the courage of the survivors and what I hope is an amazing future…I make the (un)easy choice to write and share.

I hope that each of you will do the same.  Please share thoughts below…

All photos: © W2S Hilary

Is space tourism the 8th continent?

28 Mar

I still remember the conversation.  Well, not the conversation exactly, but the way I felt after the conversation.  I felt weightless, like I was floating, with a perma-grin on my face.  I suppose it was fitting since I’d just had a 45 minute conversation with an astronaut.

Let me explain.  It was 1995, and I was a senior in high school.  I had founded a new school publication, and I wanted to interview an astronaut for the cover story.  It turns out that NASA considered me a “member of the press.”  I have to say that to this day I still appreciate that.  Thus, my interview with astronaut Rick Linnehan.  I wrote my story and sent him a copy.  I also sent him a holiday card.  Much to my delight, I received a holiday card in return from him…with an invitation to the launch of his first mission (STS-78) the following summer.

Personal photo of the launch of STS-78 from Kennedy Space Center, Florida

I give my parents a lot of credit.  We went to the launch.  Even though launch dates can change after you book flights or even once you get there, we still went.  They let me be excited.  They let me roam around the museum at Kennedy Space Center and ask a million questions they couldn’t answer.  As an invited guest of an astronaut we were admitted to a special viewing site several miles from the launchpad, so I was feeling pretty cool.  Hearing the countdown, watching the tail of fire and then hearing the sound…well, you had to be there.  And I was there!

STS-78 continues an upward trajectory for space

My friendship with Rick continued.  I wrote a story about attending the launch, and our local newspaper published it.  I sent Rick a copy.  Several months later, now in my freshman year of college, I received a package.  It was a pre-printed posterboard with images from Rick’s mission.  Around the image of the mission patch, Rick had all the astronauts from STS-78 sign it, and he wrote a message in gold ink thanking me for my support.  It is framed and still hangs on my wall today.  So yeah, I kind of have a thing with space.  Aspiration and inspiration, dreams and exploration, an unexpected friendship of sorts…it is tangled up somewhere in the stars.

It used to be that orbital space flight was the province of astronauts (and their international peers).  Is a new age of “commercial space flight” or “space tourism” underway?  What will the next decade hold?  Well, my crystal ball is broken today, but there is plenty of food for thought.

Surprised and confused.  Looking for a lexicon on space tourism

As I started doing research on this topic, I was surprised by, well, how confusing it all got.  Government agencies, private companies, nicknames for private companies, rocket names and their associated manufacturer, spaceports (yes, seriously)…I have yet to find a truly consumer friendly breakdown of the industry.  So with the caveat that I am not an engineer, let alone an aerospace engineer, nor am I am in the industry, nor have I spoken to anyone in the industry…I’m going to try and answer my own key questions as I embarked on this blog post.  Hopefully you find it a little bit useful, or at least amusing.

Just a few key points on traveling to space as a tourist

  • Did I miss it?  Are space tourists already a reality?  Not in this country, yet.  Seven people, including one who flew twice, took a trip on the Russian Soyuz rocket and spent 10 days on the International Space Station, at a price tag of $20 million +
  • What would a trip be like?  There appears to be an important distinction here between “suborbital” and “orbital.”  Suborbital takes you to about 62 miles above ground, allowing a few minutes of weightlessness and a view of the edge of the planet and the blackness of space.  Orbital takes you into low earth orbit.  From what I’ve read, the focus for tourism appears to be on the suborbital adventure.
  • How much will it cost?  Suborbital experiences are in the low six figure range, and Virgin Galactic (Richard Branson’s company) has “several hundred” bookings already.  A robust, although one year old, summary of the operators can be found on
  • So when is this going to happen?  How big will this be?  $1 billion within the next 10 years, according the FAA’s Office of Commercial Space Transportation.  Launches are expected within the next one to two years.
  • Where is all this happening?  So I kind of geeked out (yes, I just wrote that) on this map of the U.S. with locations of current and proposed operators, spaceports etc.
  • With the retiring of the space shuttle, what is next at NASA?  Deep space exploration, among many other things, with the owning and operating of low earth orbit transportation systems handed off to the private sector, according to NASA administrator Charles Bolden (Translation: the space shuttle is expensive, so let the private sector do it in a more low cost way.  In the interim, astronauts are currently getting to the International Space Station via Russian capsules)

On a personal note…

Rick and I did finally meet, several years after his launch.  We’ve had lunch twice when I happened to be in Houston.  My sister jokes with me that I’m the only person she knows who can go to Houston and schedule lunch with an astronaut.  I just smile.

I’ll always remember my final sentence of the article I wrote in high school.  “When you look up at the stars, you should be proud.”  I still believe that.  Now I would add that maybe, someday, you will get to be among them.  Until then, there are plenty of places worth exploring, and people worth knowing, right here on earth.

 Header Photo: Antarctica.  All photos © W2S Hilary

A collection of four travel vignettes

21 Mar

My proverbial mouse is a little tired today.  See I’ve had him (or her) running around a lot as I scrolled through my photos in search of which story to tell you this week.  A digression, we should be glad it wasn’t a real mouse.  For the record, I don’t do well with live rodents.  Luckily I do better with the computer variety.

I kept stopping on random photos and then moving on as I realized I couldn’t make a blog post around them.  There might even be a blog post to come on the destination itself, but these particular photos wouldn’t be included because they wouldn’t further the narrative.  So…I decided that a few them were going to see the light of publication simply because I liked them.

Norwegian Folk Museum (Oslo, Norway)

Children play on a rainy day outside the Norwegian Folk Museum

Prior to heading up to the Arctic, Polar Buddy and I spent a few days exploring Oslo itself.  The museum was enjoyable, and perhaps it would have been more enjoyable on a better day.  It was pouring rain.  And much of the museum is outdoors.  Then I saw these vibrant school children.  The rain and fountains were clearly the highlight of the afternoon.  Plus, those outfits were priceless.  It reminded me of when I was little, and I wanted nothing more than a rainy day (rare in California during the drought) to wear my raincoat, carry my umbrella and jump in a puddle.

Note to self: Celebrate rainy days (literal or figurative).  Wear something bright.

Pacific Coast, outside of Todos Santos, Mexico (near Cabo San Lucas)

I was recently in Cabo San Lucas with a close friend for vacation.  I had been once before several years ago.  There is a reasons for the popularity…it is beautiful and close, yet still away.

Beach outside of Todos Santos

In my relentless quest to get off the beaten track, we asked a shopkeeper in Todos Santos for the “locals” beach.  Sure enough, a barely marked dirt road off the highway led down to a stunning beach (Playa Los Cerritos, I believe) that definitely wasn’t a secret to locals.    With good reason.  As I strolled along, close enough to misjudge a wave and get soaked, I noticed the pattern in the sand.

Note to self: Sometimes beauty and wonder are right at your feet.

Happy Dog near Cabo San Lucas, Mexico

On another day, my friend and I decided to do a guided horseback ride along the beach.  I mean, why not?  The company took us to a different beach, also on the Pacific side.  There were some amazing cacti as we all rode down to the water.  Now if only my horse had the same commitment that I did to making sure I didn’t end up in one of those cacti, it would have been great.  There were no injuries, except to my pride.  Plus, I got this photo of the friendly canine who kept us company.

Note to self: Sometimes the dog has the best time.

Ile d’Yeu, France

Bike riding in Ile d'Yeu France

Sometimes life just happens and you end up in random beautiful places.  One of my favorite travel companions happens to also be French.  We stayed with her family while calling Paris home base to and from a trek to Nepal/Tibet in 2007.  I also got to be part of her family.    It was a rough gig (um, not).  To celebrate her father’s birthday, we went to Ile d’Yeu, off the northwest coast.  To explore the island, we rented bikes.  There might be a picture of me from later that afternoon with chocolate all over my face from a nutella crepe.  I can’t confirm that.

Note to self: Just go with it.  And crepes are always a good idea.

Old City, Sarajevo, Bosnia

Old City in Sarajevo, Bosnia

I debated including this picture.  My blog is upbeat, optimistic, and filled with a sense of promise.  This somewhat bucolic picture of Sarajevo masks pain.  It masks bombed out buildings, remnants of war.  I somehow don’t feel qualified to comment on such a tender wound.  So I’m taking a risk and sharing it with all of you anyway.  This photo always reminds me that as travelers we have a responsibility to the people we meet, to the countries that graciously let us inside their borders.  We have a responsibility to let ourselves experience and be impacted in an authentic way.  No one said authenticity was easy.

Note to self: Take risks, some big and some small.  Be authentic.

So there you have it.  What are some of your random travel memories?

Header Photo: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico.  All photos © W2S Hilary

When is “someday”? Practical tips for making your dream trip a reality

13 Mar

So I’ve written quite a bit about some amazing travel adventures I’ve turned into reality.  But this blog is more than a travelogue.  It is about sharing my (hopefully somewhat helpful) tips on how to help you create your own “someday” memories.

See? Yup, I was outlining this post before writing it.

So I spent some time putting pen to paper, literally, on the mental steps I’ve gone through over the years.  So without further ado…

It starts with “Where do you want to travel?”

For starters, this is all about you.  Also, obstacles don’t live here.  I’ll get to that later in my post.

  • Do some unconstrained thinking:  What travel destinations reoccur in your dreams?  Is there a place you talked about as a child?  It might be the appeal of the mountains or a secluded beach, an iceberg or a leopard, the Eiffel Tower or the Taj Mahal.  All of the above?  Even better.  Maybe it is someplace you’ve seen in a movie?  I will (somewhat sheepishly) admit that I learned about Angkor Wat when the destination was used in 2001’s Lara Croft: Tomb Raider movie.  I was working in Asia at the time, and I rationalized that Cambodia was closer now than it would be when I returned to the United States.  So I went.  For the record, those movie folks had it right.  Totally awesome.

    Angkor Wat in Cambodia. Personal photo from 2002.

  • Make a list without numbers: I advocate writing the list down, although my personal list is mental.  Not having an exact priority is key because fluidity helps when turning destinations into real trips.  If a friend is ready to go to your #2 destination, you don’t want to say “no” because you haven’t been to #1 yet.
  • Answer key questions: What do you like to do on vacation?  What truly makes you happy when you are traveling?  For me, I have fair skin that burns easily, and I like to be active, so sitting on a beach for a week isn’t ideal for me.  I still have plenty of tropical destinations on my list, but I’ll need activities.  If there is a mismatch with some of the places on your list from above, ask yourself if you just want to “see” them or if you truly want to “experience” all of what that destination has to offer.  Focus on destinations that you truly want to experience.  I’m fascinated by Mt. Everest and getting to base camp was the experience I wanted to have, not climbing it.  This is very individual, but be honest with yourself and own it.  No apologies needed to anyone.

Next ask yourself “With whom do you want to travel?”

This is still about you.  And we are still overlooking obstacles.

  • Brainstorm on “Who”: There are so many options.  Spouse or a significant other.  Friends (list them by name).  Family (sibling, parent, cousin).  By yourself.  By yourself (on a group trip).
  • Consider compatibility: While very personal, I typically look at three dimensions:
    • Desire: does this person have a passion like I do to travel the world?
    • Philosophy/Style: will this person want or be able to experience the destination in the same way as I do?  Activity level, attitude towards money, and appetite for adventure are all things you need consider in terms of how they match with you personally.
    • Commitment: Will this person, can this person, commit to trip?  A bigger trip requires a bigger personal and financial commitment (ie. one year out)
  • Reality Check: Will I have fun with this person?  Consider that one person might be great for a long weekend and another for a two week trip off the grid.

Overcoming obstacles: I can’t go on my dream trip because…

I could write a whole post (and still may) on this topic alone.  Hopefully the strategies above have put key building blocks in place.  Still: time, money, safety, fear, guilt…they can all get in the way of your dream trip.

Here is how I did it for Antarctica:

  • Money: I knew I was going to make this dream happen, and I had Polar Buddy identified and secured as my companion.  So I had 12 months to skip a long weekend here or there and put the money towards the trip.  I had a birthday and holiday gifts for which I could request any gear I might need.  And I took smaller trips in the following years.
  • Time: I told my employer when I booked the trip, and I did it between Christmas and New Year’s, a slower time.  Tell your boss you will help put a coverage plan together for your absence.
  • Guilt: I did this trip over Christmas.  I wouldn’t be seeing my family.  Guilt, yes.  However, they were amazingly supportive.  Making a dream trip come true is inspiration for others to do the same.

Enough thinking already… how does this all come together?

  • Start talking: Begin chatting with any of your potential travel companions.  You can be vague at first, “You know, I really want to go to Iceland.  Where do you want to go?” or “Did you see that amazing picture of X hotel on Pinterest.  Wouldn’t that be a fun long weekend getaway?”  See what they say or what ideas they have of their own.

    Ah, Paris. Long weekend in Paris? Mais oui.

  • Think of it as developing a “someday” vacation pipeline: Your spouse may be ready for a long weekend getaway while your childhood friend might be willing to go on safari next year.  Or vice versa.  While planning my trip to Antarctica with Polar Buddy, I was talking with a new friend who turned out to be a big traveler.  It also turns out we both wanted to go to Turkey.  That became my dream trip for the following year.

A few more tips to help you organize your dream trip

I consulted my friend and Professional Organizer Julie of Simplify Me to get some of her best suggestions.  In her own words, here are Julie’s tips:

  • Keep a To-Do list: The list should include all the things, big and small, that need to be done (or purchased) from the time you decide to make your trip happen until the moment you are sitting in that airplane (or train, or car, or llama express) seat.  Writing down all the steps that you need to take will not only make your trip a reality, but will also help you to make sure you don’t forget anything and are not doing a mad scramble right before you are set to leave.
  • Ask for help: If you can’t travel much because of obligations, like pets or family members that need your attention, line up help for these things well in advance. Often friends don’t mind coming by to get your mail, water your plants or make sure your pipes don’t explode in a big freeze.  Book services to take care of pets and family members that may need it.  There are pet care services that can even stay at your home (to take care of fido and snowball, not your mother!).  Also, make sure you have several backups for all the important things, in case something falls through while you’re away.
  • Pack before you pack: Do a dry run of packing a week or so before you really pack for good.  This will assure you’re not forgetting anything, and you will also be able to see how things fit (and if they don’t) into your luggage of choice. This is especially helpful if you are planning a backpacking trip. Most of all, don’t forget to pack a good attitude (I think it’s under your bed) because things sometimes happen a bit differently than planned, but if you’re on a mission to have a great time, you won’t let those bumps ruin your dream trip!

So what is your dream trip?  What are your best tips to make them reality?

Header Photo: Cabo San Lucas, Mexico sunset.  All photos ©W2S Hilary

Antarctica: Penguins, Icebergs, and My Journey to Continent #7

8 Mar

My preoccupation with Antarctica

For as long as I can remember, Antarctica was magical to me.  I can’t remember a time when I didn’t want to visit.  My father can confirm I talked about it even when I was young.  It epitomized remote, untouched, and off-the-grid.  I knew I’d be among a select group of travelers.  It had always, always been a question of when, not if.  So as a belated 30th birthday present to myself, I planned a trip with the friend who would become my “polar buddy.”  For my best tips, skip to the end of the post.

Now, a few years after the trip, the mystique is gone.  I don’t get quite the same tingling in my spine.  I do want to go back someday, to the interior, to the land of Emporer Penguins and ice tunnels (a girl can dream).  But for each of you, I long for you to have the experience I did … of making a dream come true from anticipation to actuality to nostalgia.

Getting to Antarctica: Crossing The Drake Passage

Often referred to as some of the roughest waters in the world, there is no significant land mass at the latitude of “The Drake.”  This allows for the unimpeded flow of water through the passage, which makes for rough seas.  Fair enough.  The only expertise I can claim is my own experience,  so I’ll stick with that.  However, if you have a tendency to get seasick, you may want to speak to your doctor about choosing the right treatment before your trip.  That said, I truly hope that if you want to go to this amazing place, you won’t be deterred by “The Drake.”  And for the record, I do get seasick, but if four days of agony was the price I had to pay for Antarctica, I was still in.

The way over was pretty standard, according to the staff.  The underlying motion still made me plenty queasy though (excuse me while I go eat some ginger at the memory).  On the way back to Ushuaia we got the “Drake Shake” with almost hurricane force winds.  It was actually quite a serious adventure, and I even went up to the bridge of the boat to watch the waves come crashing over the bow.  It was serious enough that we were not allowed outdoors, and it lasted about 24 hours.  Polar Buddy, who does not get seasick, was very excited.  Walking anywhere on the boat was a zigzag effort with the strong waves, and I quickly realized why there were no sharp edges anywhere, on anything, period.  Chairs were battened down to the floor, and eating was a bit messy if timed incorrectly with the waves.  Antarctica, you were still worth it.

Penguins, Penguins, Penguins (and seals)

Penguins everywhere! There I am at the edge of an adelie penguin colony

Ideally, you’ll be doing two landings per day.  Getting into and out of the zodiacs you’ll ride to shore can be a handful if the waters are at all rough.  Listen to the staff and watch your fingers.  You are supposed to stay a certain number of feet away from the penguins, but in some places there are so many penguins you couldn’t do that no matter how hard you tried.  Plus, with no natural land predators, they don’t care about you.  At one point, I looked down and there was a penguin at my feet.  They are busy little creatures.  Unfortunately, we didn’t get to see emperor penguins.  I would still like to see them at some point.

A leopard seal, seen up close from the safety of a zodiac

Seals require more deference.  We only approached with a guide to watch quietly.  It really is pretty awesome to be that close to such a big animal on foot in the wild.  We also saw a leopard seal (they eat penguins, fyi) on a piece of ice from a zodiac.  They look a little sinister, and they are fierce predators.

What you will see in Antarctica: A tale of itineraries and icebergs        So I had a vision in my mind of what I was going to see on my voyage to Antarctica.  After all, I’d read my guidebook front to back.  Once on the boat, I learned that I wouldn’t have exactly the postcard pictures I had my heart set on.  I’d have others instead.  Our trip went into the Weddell Sea, which I was told is less common.  One of the unique characteristics of the Weddell is the presence of tabular icebergs.  Flat on top with sheer sides, they are very large and breathtaking to behold.

Happy seal and busy adelie penguins on Paulet Island

I recently spoke to Joy Martinello of Expedition Trips (who helped Polar Buddy and me plan our trip to Antarctica) to make sure I had the most accurate information on what type of itinerary to expect.  She explained that operator itineraries are deliberately vague due to the highly variable weather conditions (this is Antarctica after all), and that your expedition leader is creating your experience as you go.  The operators want to ensure you have the best experience.  This means heading to spots that have rich wildlife and where conditions (water, weather, ice) will actually allow you to get ashore.  And for those purists who want to have a true continental landing (vs. only islands, which tend to have great wildlife), it usually does happen, according to Joy.  No guarantees of course.  It did for me personally; I got to check off continent number seven fair and square.

A tabular iceberg in the Weddell Sea

My top five tips for a successful journey to Antarctica

  • Book one year out, on a boat with 100 people or fewer: Boats fill fast, especially over Christmas and New Year’s.  Also, only 100 people can be on land at the same time, so if you want to maximize your time ashore (you didn’t come this far not to, right?), then keep that in mind
  • Figure out what matters to you: Price points can vary significantly, and it is an expensive trip.  I cared about safety and getting ashore, along with price.  I determined a value equation that worked for me, and I was very happy.
  • Don’t forget about booking your flight from Buenos Aires to Ushuaia early and include buffer time: Most visitors are going to Ushuaia for the same reason you are.  Make sure you get this locked early.  Also, I left a full extra day in BA in case something happened with my flight from the US.  I wasn’t missing the flight to Ushuaia.
  • Consider a clear camera filter to protect your lens: Not expensive and useful with the frequent saltwater spray, especially in the zodiacs.  Zodiacs are great places to take pictures so you’ll want to feel comfortable doing so.  Also, I had a condensation issue at one point, and I removed the filter and it cleared up.  I was happy to have it happen on the clear filter and not the precious lens!
  • Let the experience unfold: More than many other places I’ve been, this one you have to let go once you get on board.  Antarctica is still remote, and your journey will be special because it belongs to you.

If you’ve been to Antarctica, what is your favorite memory or best tip?  If you haven’t, is it on your list?  Why or why not?

Header Photo: Antarctic Peninsula horizon.  All photos © W2S Hilary

Cross country skiing in Colorado: My unsolicited opinion as a local

29 Feb

I recognize I’m on shaky ground here.  I’ve lived in Denver for nearly three years, and I love it.  Love it!  But I also quickly learned that you better know your stuff if you dare to talk about certain subjects.  Skiing is one of those subjects.  As one of my rockstar skier friends says “We measure difficulty by ducking ropes, backcountry, avalanche beacons and cliffs.  The general rule is that if you need to talk about it, you probably don’t belong.”

Being a novice doesn’t earn you any brownie points or invites.  The self-awareness to know where you don’t belong while understanding the lingo and terrain (so as to appreciate the stories of your more skilled friends) might get you invited to après ski.  And we all love après.

Which is my long winded way of saying I’m not going to touch alpine.  That said, I’ve recently gone cross country (Nordic) skiing a few times, and I do feel it is worth writing about.

What I enjoy about cross country skiing in Colorado

Beautiful scenery: Cross country skiing is so peaceful.  Often very near or at ski resorts, you get to see other areas.  Sometimes amidst beautiful trees or in the midst of a stunning valley, you can just take it all in.

Great exercise:  This is a frequent reaction I get from people when I mention cross country skiing.  According to the Mayo Clinic, a 160lb person burns 496 calories per hour doing said activity.  On average, I’ve been out for 2 or 3 hours.  Not bad.

Lower cost, fewer people:  In my experience, gear rental is $20 and the trail pass is another $20, give or take.  This is quite a bit less than alpine, and there are so many fewer people.  The whole “process” is just very easy and relatively stress free.

So if you want to give cross country skiing a try…where to go:

Proof. There I am cross country skiing at Devil's Thumb. For the record, looking fashionable was not an objective.

Devils Thumb Ranch: Civilized, rustic, charming…oh, and great trails too.  All that marketing language on their website…yeah, believe it.  Or believe me.  And go.  My only regret is that it was only a day trip.  And no, they don’t even know I’m writing about them.

Eldora: Directly adjacent to the downhill area, they’ve got 40 kilometers of terrain.  Another bonus, Eldora is outside of Boulder so you avoid all the I-70 mess and then can grab a fab brunch in Boulder on your way back.  Tip: Green trails are more like blues

The beautiful scenery while cross country skiing at Eldora

Strawberry Park (Beaver Creek): I haven’t been myself, but I have it on good authority (in this case Vail resident and extreme skier Chris Anthony) that it is great.  Plus, I’ve skied alpine at “The Beav” and truly enjoyed it, even as a novice.

So where are your favorite place to cross country ski, in CO or elsewhere?

Header Photo: Beaver Creek.  All photos © W2S Hilary

Going Home: A tour along Highway 68 in Salinas and Monterey California

23 Feb

Growing up, I didn’t know I lived in a tourist destination.  And nestled in between agricultural Salinas and scenic Monterey, I only sort of did.  Salmon was local and wild because it lived in “the bay.”  The Pacific Ocean was both stunning and demanding of respect (cold water, rip tides).  Pebble Beach was a just a foggy place where people golfed (ok, slight exaggeration.  I knew it was special).  We had droughts and earthquakes.  Clint (as in Eastwood) was, and still is, a beloved local celebrity and steward of the land.

I haven’t been back very frequently since I left for college, much to my parents’ dismay.  But after a recent visit this past weekend, I felt it was time to write about it.  I’ll leave the complete reviews of Monterey, Carmel, and Big Sur to others.  Chris Gray Faust (of Chris around the world) has done a nice, very recent “California Dreaming” series.  My take is decidedly more personal and a little off the beaten track.

The charm of Highway 68

Highway 68 is the mostly two lane road the links Salinas and Monterey.  It does connect with Highway 1 (also known as the Pacific Coast Highway) for a section in Monterey before splitting off again.  And it has treasures all along the way.  Or maybe they are just treasures to me because they play a role in my past.  Either way, they are still worth checking out.

The Farm

The Farm: Local and organic situated at the Spreckles exit just outside of Salinas, they sell produce, have great kids programming, and sell homemade pies along with produce.  Closed during the winter months, I stopped by to take a few pics.  There were a few people tending to the fields and a happy spotted goat scampering on a roof.  Being here reminds me of the way I wish I could eat every day (a personal chef would be nice too).  I have one of their “Bunny lettuce” signs framed in my apartment in Denver to remind me of my roots.

Toro Place Café: Literally just off the highway (on the eastbound side), this place says dive in all the best ways.  How does a Cali girl learn to love biscuits and gravy?  You guessed it.  It is also inextricably linked with my sister and our childhood and summer and picking blackberries in our backyard.  So I don’t know how the food is these days and frankly I don’t care.  Go for nostalgia alone.

Toro Place Cafe

Tarpy’s Roadhouse: Not too far from the local airport on the westbound side of the highway.  I ate here just last weekend and the food was pretty good.  The warm sourdough bread always served hot has forever served as the standard by which I judge bread.  The grounds are beautiful.  My family celebrated a lot of milestones here, and it always feels like home.

Tarpy's Roadhouse

The Golden Tee (2nd Floor, Monterey Peninsula Airport): Oh, my darling local airport.  If only United didn’t make it so expensive to fly non-stop to you directly from Denver.  Good food, nice view…worth going.

Carmel Beach: Ok, so this is touristy, and I don’t care.  Carmel itself is just so darn cute (be sure to visit the Cheese Shop in Carmel Plaza).  Dogs are welcome on the beach which makes it a fave with locals.

Carmel Beach

Nice views of Pebble and those Cypress trees all make for lovely photos.  No matter what life is throwing at me, somehow I feel like I can always breath again when I’m here.

One final word

So perhaps a more personal post than most…for me this is where “someday” began.

Header Photo: Carmel Beach.  All photos © W2S Hilary

Musings on Pinterest and Travel

17 Feb

How I came to know and love Pinterest

Two months ago, I didn’t know what Pinterest was and the concept didn’t make sense to me.  One of my close friends, digital rockstar and fellow blogger Wendy from Suburban Misfit, sent me an invite.  They are still invite only right now.  And they are making a splash on the social media scene.  According to a Wall Street Journal article, they currently have 11 Million users and are growing fast.  If you need a beginners guide, Mashable has a good one.  Oh, and for bloggers, there is a really easy explanation of how to add it to your blog.  But seriously, just get an invite from one of your friends and play around.  The addiction will take on a life of its own.

Wedding planning, fashion and interior design are some of the hot verticals right now, which leads me to contemplate how it will play out in the world of travel.

Where to begin: Travel bloggers, travel magazines and the like

There isn’t a lot of lists out there like there are for fashion.  A helpful blog post on the topic from Budget Travel got me on my journey.    I’m quite certain my list will change, evolve, and expand over time.  But I’ve got to start somewhere.  So without further ado:

  • Chris Gray Faust: Besides lots of pretty pictures, all her boards feel personal.  Her “Quotes to live by” board has me inspired in life, not just travel.
  • Johnny Jet: High on the gorgeous photo quotient, his boards are well organized.  I’m repinning, so that is a good sign.
  • Travel Channel: Glossy, glossy, glossy with a lot of pins.  I’m loving the eye candy, and I’m curious to see what they’ll do.  They are asking their followers what they want to see.  Answers were wide ranging, but I am happy they are asking the question.
  • Budget Travel: With only 3 boards, they are clearly doing some curating, and I think that is smart.  One of those boards is on “Reader’s Best Travel Photos,” and I think that method of engagement has lot of potential.

So where will it go?  Interesting intersections of travel with weddings, fashion, and photography

So I talked earlier about some of the popular categories on Pinterest: fashion, weddings etc.  I’m interested in the cocktail.

  • Travel + Weddings = Honeymoon: I’m sure this is happening already, but I would have to imagine it will increase.  And the ability to target market if the data about those aspirations were available…
  • Travel + Fashion= Happiness: Ok, I have to go on a brief tangent.  I travel a lot, and I don’t look good in many of those photos.  No perfect accessory, variable weather, the comfort factor, hair won’t cooperate if humidity is present.  I’m sending a wish into cyberspace that some board or blend of National Geo + Real Simple+ Nina Garcia (names indicative only) will help me to “Travel Cute.”  Sigh.  And not go broke.  Sigh, Sigh.  And be comfy-ish.
  • Travel + Photography= Someday Moments: Some view Pinterest as too aspirational (clothes I can’t afford, space I don’t have), but I think of it as inspiration for reality.  I recently repinned a crazy beautiful photo of the aurora borealis, something I’ve always wanted to see, and will someday.  The photo reminds me to stay focused on creating my own memory, my own moment.  I hope that you will do the same.

So…who do you follow on Pinterest for Travel?  What interesting intersections do you see?

Header Photo: Volcano and sunrise as viewed from hot air balloon in Cappadocia, Turkey  October 2009  © W2S Hilary

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